As the weather was clear for the first time of the season, we seize the opportunity to discover the north coast of Mallorca. It is not for nothing that the magnificent mountain range that runs along this entire coast is called “Tramontana”.
Opposite: The calas of the north coast offer incredible waters!
Now that the water temperature is over 25 degrees, Raquel can finally swim!
The Tramontana, which culminates at 1445m and plunges steeply into the sea, offers us a splendid landscape with canyons like Sa Calobra, beaches like Cala Tuent with turquoise waters. The only agglomeration in the area, which shelters from the north wind, is the port of Sòller. It was long cut off from the rest of the island, until the tunnel was built.
Opposite: Facing the Tramontana.
The north coast of Mallorca
As a result of this geology, Sòller Bay regularly experiences catabatic if not stormy winds that make the bad reputation of the anchorage. It’s always an experience to get out of a peaceful sleep at 3am to start the engine and fight 30-knot squalls.
Woe to those who by optimism or unconsciousness have wet too few chains!
Woe to those who have wet in sacred posidonia!
Woe to those who have badly wrapped their veil which then slams in the hot air that nothing stops!
When the wind rises in a few seconds, everyone participates in the dance of the boats whose anchor hunts. Some are grounding on the beach, some are colliding, screaming in all languages!
When like me, you ramed a rock in a storm last year, you drag the boat in the sand and put a lot of chains. The bimini is stored at sunset, the sails are well closed and the key is on the ignition, ready to be turned. One rock, but never two !
Further south of Sòller, we spend the night in Sa Foradada, an irregularity in the coast known for its pierced rock. There, above the anchorage, a restaurant offers a breathtaking view of the southern part of the coast and an excellent paella for an expensive but justified price: access is very complicated!
Very happy with our stay, we raise anchor: thunderstorms are expected in the area and a favorable wind will allow us to sail to Ibiza. We are getting across during the night, the swell is crooked and a little more than a meter. Poor Raquel!
Ibiza – Formentera
Ibiza. I had never been there except for an anchorage in the south without much interest last year. We landed in the north of the island where we met friends I had met them during the first lockdown at the port of Kernevel in Lorient: they live on their sailboat, Lady L. The last time we saw each other was on the island of Yeu in 2020!
Ibiza is a rather atypical island. On one side there is its wild aspect with spectacular calas on the coast and small villages in the middle of peaceful meadows. Raquel has the great idea to rent a scooter by the day, that’s how we visit the place. It’s easy and accessible! On the other side, we meet in the cities people drugged in the middle of the day. Jet skis are flying in all directions and some yachts have no respect for the noise level.
The gates of Stonehenge in Ibiza
Quiet evening in Cala Codolar in Ibiza
Opposite: scooter ride in Ibiza
Three months of progress
Our summer journey is coming to an end and we sailed to let Øya rest at the port of Valencia.
Raquel has become perfectly accustomed to life on board despite Øya’s narrowness and lack of comfort. We want to continue our wake towards new horizons outside the Mediterranean, if possible with a more suitable boat!
We’ll see if the bankers agree to put me in debt for a few more years!